Siding is hung and not nailed tightly. The slots are so it can move. With metal edging is not so critical but you can't put it on with a nail gun. If you hit it too hard with a roofing hatchet you'll cause it to bulge. If you use a smooth hammer you'll probably be cursing soon. "Got down inside the ditch!" Go ahead and say it loudly and watch you're kids expression.
1) Put the metal edge on the eave.
2) Install felt.
3)Install metal edge on the rakes.
4)StormGuard or other waterproofing maybe.
4) Word wouldn't let that happen
5) Starter and bleeder (starter on the rakes because it is not a starter but an alignment and beautifier so you don't see the lapping roofing from underneath)
6)Pick up sticks....
7)Back to roofing
Remember not be be a troglodyte when you install lifetime or designer roofing because you took a 20 year shingle and turned it upside down and backwards for a starter/bleeder shingle. For that matter don't even do it when you sell the cheapest roof allowable by man. Professional starter shingles help prevent blow off and troglodyte ladder damage to the first row.
The other wind susceptible place is the downwind side of the ridge. Just ask Bernoulli or any old wood roofer.
The nails need not be many. No more than five unless you live in a hurricane zone. Anymore more won't help. Prayer is the answer.
Do not over drive. Remember to pinch the top lap a little so the metal will have a little spring in it that keeps it flush when it laps over the previous piece.
Cut a triangle out of the corner to wrap it so a little piece is not hanging out to slice some roofers hand. As you go up the rake lap the metal in a waterproof manner. When you get near the ridge be sure not to put in a small piece. You can cur off some of the ten foot length and use a little longer piece.
Lap over the ridge by cutting the face of the metal edge but don't let it lap just a few inches or it will look bad.
Metal edge comes in various sizes and color ans well as shape. Different manufacturers make it either smooth or textured.
when I was a young man you could twill a stick of roof metal edge in one hand as we did in our marching band at The National Roofing College in Arlington. Now if you hold five pieces together and the wind blows, they will bend. Anyway you need to call the roofing distributor before your crew gets there and tell them the metal edge showed up all dinged up. That is a technical term in roofing for the driver threw it off the truck. It doesn't matter because it's the wrong color anyway and if you do not do your due diligence the roofers will put the paisley metal on the red roof. Not a good match in America but they do use that in Kabul and Tokyo.
The roof metal edge should not be installed over rotten wood. If there is a 1x2 shingle molde trim, a one inch face metal edge looks better. Most comes in a three inch stretch out with a one inch face and two inches under the roofing or an even 1 1/2" split.
I'm not going to discuss "D" style or "F" style metal in this forum.
If there is a gutter the edging may need to be larger. The edge should go inside of the back of the gutter even if the fascia is wrapped in aluminum coil.
I forgot to tell you, and I'm not going back to edit because roof blogs are boring and I don't read them, that the side with the beads is the top side. Those beads add strength and help keep water from wicking up and under the roofing by water tension. Come on, they are slapped together by gravity and the water will climb uphill as it can between two pieces of glass. Geese willikers.
The little kick on the face that goes down is a drip bead and strengthener too. The more brakes a piece of metal has the stronger it is. The good metal edge hems underneath to be stronger and keep blood off the fascia. But don't try to wrap two corners with one piece because it won't fit properly and building move may cause it to loosen.
In San Antonio they don't use much metal edge. They raise the shingle molde up to cover the edge of the plywood so it can't sponge up the water.
Plant cells don't know much and are not aware they are dead, even when sliced into thin sheets and glued together. The Spanish word for plywood is "thri-pli" unless you want to get technical. Then it is madera contrapachada but if you use that in a restaurant you might get lizard or frog.
Anyway, plywood wants to be wet so it will be set free. Here, we use metal edge to protect the fascia and plywood butt edge.
Older homes in Irving had three inch face metal edge but Allstate is not going to pay for that. Heck, they won't even pay for the smaller stuff so give up. They have been unbelievably cheap this year. They say the flashing aren't hail damaged so they won't pay for them. The roof and it's accompanying system need to be replaced as a unit and not piece mealed by cheap insurance companies. State Farm, Metropolitan, Farmers, and most others pay for every piece and part on a roof if you ask. Allstate won't.
Metal edge needs to be installed neatly band in a waterproof manner. Over the years I've come to believe that someone has a roofing manual, and not Manual the roofer, that states "banged up and twisted metal edge needs to be installed directly over the front door so the purchaser of the roof will not have a difficult time finding it." Diffy Cult Roofing went out of business years ago but some of their witchcraft and spells seem to still infest roofers. We got our shots.
Lastly, believe me, the metal should match the fascia and not the roof. It's up to you but if the metal is fairly close to the paint, refraction will make close colors appear the same. We have available white, brown, almond, tan, grey, black, paisley, and mill. if you want to paint it you must clean it with vinegar or lemon juice to remove the oils or let time, pollution and acid rain etch the surface so the paint will stick better.
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